Milan
New York
Paris
TREND REPORT:
Paris and Milan
Fall 2010
By: Danielle Barrios
Keeping the consumers perspective in mind, this season hinted, whispered, and, at times, shouted, one theme: utilitarian fashion. With that in mind, designers kept their eye on the prize; seamless versatility and season-less dressing. Fall’s newly re-discovered classics are certain to extend the shelf life of any woman’s wardrobe. The season’s stand out piece is the day-to-night, timeless, fully functional cape. Stefano Pilati’s transported chicness to a new level in his collection for Yves Saint Laurent’s debuting humble day capes and striking shoulder coverups for evening in satin jewel tones.
In step with fall, trenches, aviator jackets, coats and knitwear graced the runway, but what stood out and seemed fresh and new this season was camel. Alber Elbaz’s mid-calf length, luscious, camel coat for Lanvin, held its own as quite possibly only an essential can. At Chloe, Hannah MacGibbon embraced camel with classic trousers, a knee-length trench and booties all in warm camel hues. Nuetrals influenced the Paris collections from Lanvin to Louis Vuitton, where Marc Jacobs sent out an unusual number of full breasted models wearing nuetral colors, lady-like mini handbags and sky high pointy heels. Nude even made old seem new again. Dolce & Gabanna’s knit pencil skirt with a black waistband and a tone on tone silk corset underneath a knit jacket looked polished without being over-the-top. Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière contributed to the neutral trend with geometric color blocking and futuristic silhouettes.
The season’s love for intense color found designers lusting over oxblood. A deep dark red that oozes sex. Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin showed an oversize Mongolian fur jacket in oxblood over a sheer black blouse paired with tight leather jeans. At Dior, John Galliano featured the color in a knee-length leather riding coat whereas Donna Karan revealed the season’s power utilitarian look in a belted oxblood sweater dress. For women on the go, falls accessories are as versatile as Chloe’s camel-colored trench. Finally, we can say goodbye to handbags large enough to transport a small child. Bigger is no longer better. Fall is all about a woman who simply carries nothing more than what she needs. No nonsense handbags in subtle neutrals and muted tones. Lanvin’s alligator clutch kept such practicality in mind as did YSL with flattened clutches prepared to take on daily tasks. Costume National and Gucci took the larger handbag route, though the bags remained easy-to-carry, and ready-to-wear no matter the season.
There is nothing more versatile than the short ankle bootie, day-to-night, season to season, year to year, the bootie is impervious. Dior’s coveted ankle boot in nude, beige or brown leather featured add on spats with multiple buckles that wrapped around the heel. Givenchy’s black lace up bootie screams versatility, while Giambattista Valli’s bootie with bow details at the toe begs to be worn on any adventure. On the other hand, what would this season be without nudes? The answer lies in the hands of Marc Jacobs and his sky high, stacked Cuban heel pumps with flat grosgrain bows for Louis Vuitton. Lanvin’s bootie and snakeskin pump with ankle straps gave another shout out to fall’s hot new color, oxblood.